If you have ever found yourself standing in the middle of the Stradun in mid-August, surrounded by a sea of people, you know the feeling. You are sweating under the relentless Adriatic sun and wondering if there is any escape from the madness. Most visitors to Dubrovnik follow a very predictable path. They enter through the Pile Gate, they walk the limestone streets polished by centuries of footsteps, and they pay a premium to walk the City Walls. Then they leave, believing they have seen everything this city has to offer. They are wrong.
Just a few hundred meters from the chaotic energy of the Old Town lies a place that seems to exist in a completely different dimension. It is a place where the air is cooler and the sounds of the city are replaced by the chirping of crickets. Here, history is not just something you look at behind a velvet rope, but something you walk upon. This place is Park Gradac.
During your walk through this peaceful green escape, it is also worth stepping into the nearby Dubrovnik Synagogue, to experience a completely different side of the city’s layered history.
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Finding Your Way to the Green Oasis of Park Gradac
The journey to Park Gradac is deceptively simple, yet it serves as a perfect filter. Only those who are curious enough to wander away from the main attractions will find it. To begin this pilgrimage, you must start at the Pile Gate, the grand western entrance to the Old Town. But instead of flowing with the crowd into the stone belly of the city, you must turn your back on it. You will see the sea on your left and the imposing Hilton Imperial Hotel on your right. This hotel itself is a landmark, a relic of the early days of tourism when European aristocracy first discovered the Dalmatian coast.
You will follow the road that leads uphill, known as Ulica don Frana Bulića. It is a gentle climb, just enough to separate the casual tourists from the explorers. As you walk, the noise of the Pile Gate begins to fade, replaced by the hum of everyday life. You will pass the grand building of the Inter-University Centre, a structure that has seen its fair share of history and conflict. Keep walking until the road flattens out and you see a large, open parking area on your left.
This parking lot is the final barrier. To the uninitiated, it looks like nothing more than a place to leave a car. But to those who know the history of Dubrovnik, this asphalt square is hallowed and haunted ground. You must walk through this area, past the metal beasts of modern transportation, until the concrete ends and the earth begins. You will see a path leading into the dense shade of tall pine trees. Take that path. You have arrived at Park Gradac.
The Dark History of The Gallows at Park Gradac
Before we admire the beauty of the park, we must acknowledge the darkness that preceded it. The area where you likely just walked, the parking lot at the entrance of Park Gradac, was not always a place for vehicles. For centuries, during the long and prosperous reign of the Dubrovnik Republic, this specific location was known as “Vješala,” which translates directly to “The Gallows.”
The Republic of Dubrovnik was a marvel of diplomacy and trade. It survived between the hammer of the Ottoman Empire and the anvil of Venice by being smart, wealthy, and neutral. However, maintaining order in such a precarious position required strict internal discipline. The Republic was known for its harsh justice system. The logic of the city fathers was cold and efficient. They believed that justice needed to be visible to be effective. Therefore, they placed the city’s gallows here, on a prominent headland just outside the main city walls.
It was a strategic choice. Anyone approaching Dubrovnik from the west, whether they were merchants, diplomats, or potential invaders, would have to pass by this spot. The sight of the gallows served as a grim billboard, advertising the city’s commitment to law and order. It was a clear warning that while Dubrovnik was a city of liberty, so much so that “Libertas” was its motto, that liberty came with strict boundaries.
The Austrian Vision and the Birth of Park Gradac
The transformation of this headland began in earnest with the arrival of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. When the Austrians took control of this region in the 19th century, they brought with them their specific brand of urban planning and their love for public green spaces. They viewed parks not just as empty land, but as essential components of a civilized city, places where the body could be exercised and the spirit refreshed.
In 1898, the Austrian administration decided that Dubrovnik needed a grand public park. They looked at the wild, rocky headland of Park Gradac and saw potential. It was a massive undertaking. The terrain was rugged, exposed to the salt spray of the sea and the strong bura winds. But the Austrian engineers were persistent. They carved out winding paths that followed the natural contours of the land.
They brought in soil to cover the harsh rock. They planted hundreds of Aleppo pines, chosen specifically for their ability to withstand the coastal climate and for the dense, cooling shade they provided. This was not intended to be a wild forest, but a cultivated garden. It was designed for the “promenade,” the social ritual of seeing and being seen.
Ladies in long dresses and gentlemen in suits would come to Park Gradac on Sunday afternoons. They would walk arm in arm, discussing politics and local gossip while enjoying the fresh sea air. The layout of the park that we walk through today is largely the legacy of that era. The stone walls, the leveled terraces, and the specific viewing points were all carefully calculated to frame the beauty of the city and the sea. It was a gift from the empire to the city, a green crown placed upon the limestone cliffs.
The Forgotten Zoo Within Park Gradac
There is a chapter in the history of Park Gradac that sounds almost like a fairy tale to modern ears, yet it is entirely true. For a brief but vibrant period in the 20th century, this park was home to a zoo. It was officially known as the “Bird Garden,” but it housed much more than just birds.
The initiative began in the late 1920s, driven by a desire to offer the citizens of Dubrovnik something educational and exotic. In 1929, the garden was officially opened to the public. It was an immediate sensation. You have to understand the context of the time. There was no television, no internet, and travel was a luxury reserved for the very rich. For the average child in Dubrovnik, seeing a live eagle up close or watching a monkey play was a miraculous event.
The zoo in Park Gradac was not a small, backyard affair. It was a serious institution with cages, enclosures, and dedicated caretakers. The archives tell us that the collection included various species of eagles, owls, and exotic colorful parrots that had never been seen in the Adriatic before. There were even smaller mammals included in the exhibits.
There are oral histories from older locals who recall stories of their grandparents hearing the strange calls of exotic animals echoing through the pine trees at night. The popularity of the Bird Garden was immense. In its first decade, it attracted tens of thousands of visitors, a staggering number for a town the size of Dubrovnik at that time. It was the pride of the city.
However, the dark clouds of World War II brought an end to this whimsical era. The war brought shortages of food and resources, and maintaining a zoo became an impossible luxury. The animals were gone by 1941, and the cages were eventually dismantled. But if you have a keen eye, you can still find traces of this lost world. As you explore the lower terraces of Park Gradac, look for unusual stone foundations and leveled areas that seem too specific to be just retaining walls. These are the archaeological remains of the time when the roar of the wild could be heard just outside the city walls.
A Wedding to Die For: The Park Gradac Connection to Game of Thrones
In recent years, Park Gradac has gained global fame that has nothing to do with history and everything to do with pop culture. For millions of viewers, this park is instantly recognizable not as a Croatian landmark, but as the gardens of the Red Keep in King’s Landing. While the Game of Thrones production team used many locations across Dubrovnik, they chose this specific park for one of the series’ most pivotal moments: the “Purple Wedding” in the fourth season.
Fans will vividly remember the opulent feast where King Joffrey Baratheon met his gruesome end. That entire sequence, from the tense celebrations to the young king choking on poisoned wine, was filmed right here on the main plateau of Park Gradac. To find the exact spot, simply walk towards the edge of the park overlooking the Lovrijenac Fortress. You will find a large, circular area with a fountain base in the center, which the crew transformed into a royal garden for the shoot.
The best part is that they did not need to use CGI for the background. The looming stone mass of the Red Keep you see in the show is the actual view of Lovrijenac Fortress from Park Gradac. Standing there today, it is easy to visualize the scene where Joffrey fell. Unlike the crowded City Walls, this location allows you to enjoy a massive piece of television history in solitude, letting you take the perfect photo without fighting through crowds of tourists.
The Symphony of Nature in Park Gradac
While the history and the film connections are compelling, the true value of Park Gradac lies in its natural beauty. It is a botanical sanctuary that offers a respite from the stone desert of the Old Town. The dominant feature of the park is the Aleppo pine forest. These are not merely decorative trees; they are ancient giants that have twisted and turned into fantastic shapes under the influence of the coastal winds.
The canopy of these pines is thick and interlocking, creating a natural roof that blocks out the fierce summer sun. The temperature inside Park Gradac is noticeably lower than in the city streets. It is a microclimate of cool air and deep shade. The ground is carpeted with layers of dried pine needles, which soften your footsteps and release a distinct, resinous aroma when crushed. This scent, combined with the salty air rising from the sea below, creates a perfume that is the essence of the Mediterranean summer.
As you wander deeper into the park, you will notice other plant species fighting for space in the undergrowth. There are wild caper bushes growing out of the stone walls, their delicate white and purple flowers opening in the morning. You will see agaves with their sharp, sword-like leaves, and tall cypresses standing like dark green sentinels.
The park is also a haven for local wildlife. It is one of the few places in the city where you can hear a full choir of cicadas singing in the heat of the day. You might spot a red squirrel darting up a tree trunk or a gecko freezing on a warm stone. For a city that is so heavily paved and built up, Park Gradac is a vital lung. It is a green heart that keeps beating quietly while the city rushes around it.
Why the Views from Park Gradac Are Unbeatable
It is a common misconception that you have to pay to get the best views in Dubrovnik. Tourists line up to pay for the cable car to Mount Srđ or buy tickets for the walls, chasing the perfect panorama. While those views are certainly spectacular, the vistas from Park Gradac offer a different, perhaps more intimate perspective, and they cost absolutely nothing.
The park sits on a promontory that juts out into the sea, giving it a commanding position with views in multiple directions. The most famous view is to the east, looking towards the Lovrijenac Fortress. From Park Gradac, you see the fortress in profile, rising sheer from the dark blue water. It is a dramatic, powerful angle that conveys the strength of the city’s defenses better than any other viewpoint. The interplay of the grey stone fortress, the blue sea, and the green pines in the foreground makes for a photographer’s dream.
But do not just look east. Walk to the western edge of the park, and you will look down upon the area of Danče. This is a rocky bay with a monastery and a historic cemetery. It is also the oldest swimming spot in Dubrovnik, frequented almost exclusively by locals.
From the heights of Park Gradac, you can watch the waves crashing against the jagged rocks of Danče, sending plumes of white spray into the air. It is a raw, wilder side of Dubrovnik that most visitors miss. To the south, the view is endless. It is just the open Adriatic, stretching out towards Italy, with the dark, forested shape of Lokrum Island floating on the horizon.
Watching the sunset from Park Gradac is a spiritual experience. As the sun dips below the horizon, the sky turns a bruised purple and orange, and the silhouette of the fortress turns black against the dying light. It is a show that happens every evening, and the best seat in the house is a wooden bench under a pine tree.
If you are starting your journey on the Croatian coast, besides Game of Thrones locations, you should to read this comprehensive Ultimate Dubrovnik Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go.
Frequently Asked Questions About Park Gradac
Is there an entrance fee for Park Gradac?
No, entrance to the park is completely free for everyone, making it one of the few cost-free attractions in Dubrovnik.
What are the opening hours for Park Gradac?
The park is open 24 hours a day, every day of the year, so you can visit whenever you like.
Are there public toilets inside the park?
No, there are no toilets or cafes inside the park, so you should use the facilities near Pile Gate before entering.
Is the park suitable for children?
Yes, it is safe for children with wide paths for running, though there are no specific playground facilities.
Can I bring my dog to Park Gradac?
Yes, the park is very pet-friendly and is a popular spot for locals to walk their dogs.
Our Most Popular Tours To Sarajevo
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