Cross Drvenija Bridge; the Miljacka moves slowly. On your left—green doors, arabesques, arches like a book bound in sand and gold. This is the Ashkenazi Synagogue in Sarajevo: completed in 1902, designed by Karel (Karl) Pařík in a Neo-Moorish mood and—most importantly—the only active synagogue in Bosnia and Herzegovina. People pray here, study here, and welcome guests who want to hear about Sarajevo’s Jews—Ashkenazim and Sephardim—about good times and hard ones, and about the persistence of a community that still breathes.
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Where the Ashkenazi Synagogue is-and how to recognize it
You’ll find the synagogue at Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59, right on the Miljacka river—five to ten minutes on foot from Baščaršija, between Drvenija and Skenderija bridges. You’ll recognize it by Neo-Moorish details: rhythmic arches, geometric ornament on the façade, small crowns and cupolas that lift the silhouette without heaviness. Walking from the Old Town, simply follow the river upstream; if you’re coming along Vilsonovo, cross Drvenija Bridge, turn right, and in a couple hundred meters you’re at the door. That “approach through water” isn’t just practical—it sets the theme: Sarajevo as a city of layers and crossings.
A short architecture lesson: the Ashkenazi Synagogue and Pařík’s Sarajevo
Karel Pařík sketched a large share of what we now call Sarajevo’s “classical skyline.” The Ashkenazi Synagogue is one of his quiet gems: modest outside, warm and ceremonial inside. The Neo-Moorish style—fashionable across Habsburg cities at the time—reflects a fascination with “oriental” forms and the idea that sacred buildings should be distinctive and decorative without empty theatrics. Pařík also left Sarajevo Hotel Europe, the Academy of Fine Arts (formerly an Evangelical church), the National Museum, and more. If you enjoy architectural walks, pairing the synagogue with a “Pařík route” is a great way to read the city.
Why the Ashkenazi Synagogue matters (now as much as ever)
It is an active house of worship and a living address of the community. Services, gatherings, cultural programs—all happen here. Visitors get context that doesn’t fit into quick guidebooks: how Sephardi and Ashkenazi strands intertwined in Sarajevo, what life under Austria-Hungary looked like, what was broken in WWII, what survived, and how life is being rebuilt today. In a city where communities have shared streets and holidays for centuries, the Ashkenazi Synagogue is a chapter you don’t skip.
Practicalities: hours, admission, and visit rules at the Ashkenazi Synagogue
Hours do change, but a good rule of thumb is Monday–Friday, in the morning and early afternoon (roughly 09:30–14:00). For groups, it’s best to book 1–2 days ahead. Admission is usually a symbolic donation; for registered school groups, entry is often free. Dress modestly; men may be asked to wear a kippah (typically provided at the door). Photography can be limited or allowed discreetly—ask first. Bring cash (BAM) because cards aren’t always accepted. In short: arrive quietly, ask what you’re curious about, and remember this is first and foremost a prayer space.
Short history: the Ashkenazi Synagogue between two traditions
Sarajevo has been home to Sephardic Jews since the late 15th century, when they arrived after expulsion from Spain. In the 19th century, more Ashkenazi Jews came from Central and Eastern Europe. The city thus lived with two parallel traditions: the Sephardi thread (the Old Synagogue in the heart of the bazaar—today the Jewish Museum) and the Ashkenazi one (the Ashkenazi Synagogue on the Miljacka). Liturgy, chant, and customs differ here and there; the shared life feels distinctly Sarajevan. To complete the picture, pair your synagogue visit with the Jewish Museum in the Old Town: two rooms, two stories, one city.
Inside: what the prayer hall of the Ashkenazi Synagogue looks like
Open the door and you feel a quiet solemnity. The aron ha-kodesh (Torah ark) sits on the eastern wall, a gallery overlooks the hall, and the forms amplify light and shadow, guiding you into the rhythm of prayer. There’s no kitsch, no excess—just dignity and careful detail. On Shabbat and festivals the space is primarily for the community; at other times, with respect for the rules, it welcomes visitors. The lasting impression is the play of light and wood—architecture as a gentle guide through text.
The Ashkenazi Synagogue for travelers: how to plan 60–90 minutes
Come in the morning, when it’s calmer. If you’re a group, announce your visit—doors and questions open wider. Spend 20–30 minutes in the main hall, noting decor, inscriptions, the gallery. For wider context, stroll the river to Latin Bridge, then continue to the Jewish Museum in the Old Town. In one breath you’ll connect Ashkenazi and Sephardi strands.
Context and community: who’s at the Ashkenazi Synagogue today
The Jewish Community of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Community Center) is at the same address. This is where programs, exhibitions, lectures, and humanitarian projects are coordinated. If you want to understand contemporary community life—religious and cultural—this is your point of contact. Best practice: send a short message or call, say when you’re coming and what you’re interested in. Sarajevo is a city that loves conversation; the synagogue is where conversation gains quiet and meaning.
Getting there: a step-by-step to the Ashkenazi Synagogue
- On foot: 7–10 minutes from Baščaršija at an easy pace.
- Tram/bus: get off around the center (Skenderija/Drvenija) and walk to the riverbank.
- Taxi: “Ashkenazi Synagogue, Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59”—drivers know it.
- By car: street parking nearby is limited; expect a few minutes of searching at peak times.
The bigger picture: the Ashkenazi Synagogue as part of Pařík’s Sarajevo
If architecture is your thing, build a compact route: Ashkenazi Synagogue → Academy of Fine Arts → Hotel Europe → National Museum. You’ll see how one architect fused function, measure, and style so his buildings still “do their job”: gathering people, knowledge, and story.
Contacts and planning your Ashkenazi Synagogue visit
- Address: Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59, Sarajevo
- Phone (Jewish Community of BiH / Community Center): +387 (0)33 229 666, 229 667
- Individual visits: best on weekdays, morning/early afternoon
- Groups / guided visits: book 1-2 days in advance
- Note: hours and rules may change-check on the day.
NEW: the Ashkenazi Synagogue and Sarajevo’s Jews across the centuries- a brief timeline
- 15th/16th c.: Sephardim arrive in Sarajevo after expulsion from Spain; they build a community, trades, and customs.
- 19th c.: under Austria-Hungary, Ashkenazim arrive from Central/Eastern Europe; the community grows and needs an Ashkenazi synagogue.
- 1902: Ashkenazi Synagogue on the Miljacka is completed; architect Karel Pařík.
- 20th c.: wars, losses, and rebuilding; the community diminishes, but continuity remains.
- Today: the only active synagogue in BiH—prayer and memory, plus openness to visitors.
This line is more than chronology; it’s a map of endurance. That’s why the synagogue speaks not only to believers but to anyone reading Sarajevo as a city of layers.
FAQ: common questions about the Ashkenazi Synagogue in Sarajevo
What are the opening hours of the Ashkenazi Synagogue?
Typically weekdays, morning to early afternoon; confirm on the day you visit.
Is there an admission fee?
Usually a symbolic donation; school groups often free with prior notice. Guided visits by arrangement.
Is the Ashkenazi Synagogue still an active house of worship?
Yes-the only active synagogue in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Outside prayer times, it welcomes visitors under house rules.
Where is it and what’s the easiest way to get there?
At Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59, on the Miljacka; walk from the center/Old Town, or take a short tram/taxi ride.
Who should I contact for group visits?
The Jewish Community of BiH / Community Center at the same address (tel. +387 33 229 666 / 229 667).
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